Tripping out
James Fryer wonders how far his travels will take him at an ambitiously all-embracing eatery, Latino House.
Latin America covers an expanse of some 21 million km squared – spanning snow-capped mountains, virgin rainforest and parched deserts. To attempt to embrace a land of such extremes in a small restaurant off Sheikh Zayed Road is ambitious to say the least, but Latino House wasn’t daunted by the challenge.
A lounge area lulls you into a sense of relaxed tranquility as the hip crowd slouches back on sofas sipping ice-cold mojitos. We spiralled our way down the marble staircase to the sunken restaurant, with softly flickering tea lights lighting the way and my companion trying to stop her flowing skirt from catching fire.
Arriving safely at our table, my culinary journey began with the Ecuadorian shrimp ceviche, served with popcorn – a cold and tangy tomato soup, slightly bitter but with a generous helping of juicy shrimp. The popcorn reminded me of a visit to the cinema, and left me pondering whether the cold combination was a success. Meanwhile, my partner dug into her platter of delicately presented tapas.
The starters disappeared and so did the lights. Then they were back on again in a flash. And off again. A waiter ran past our table and sprinted up the stairs. The new venue’s teething problems were evident. Still, our mains arrived without a hitch. A Venezuelan dish sporting a trio of implausibly meaty langoustine shrimps was served with the richest honey known to man – a powerful, sweetly successful combination of flavours. My coriander-marinated baby chicken was a little fatty and the passion fruit syrup was overbearing.
It was reassuring to hear the Chilean-style soufflé would take 20 minutes to prepare. We took in the samba beats resonating from the restaurant’s columns. The pudding was worth the wait; a slightly crunchy exterior hid piping hot, fluffy mousse. The chocolate, slightly bitter, perfectly offset the subtle coffee ice-cream. My traditional Venezuelan cake – treacly layers of creamy sponge – was equally delicious. But the biggest trump in the dessert deck was the surprise arrival of tiny chocolate cones of homemade ice-cream delivered to each table, smoking with dry ice. The meal was Dhs450 well spent.
While offering a thorough sample of South American cuisine is a task beyond any cantina, Latino House has displayed a commitment to the flavours of the continent previously unseen in Dubai. And while we applaud the Venezuelan manager and chef double-act for their flamboyant ambition, we hope the success of Al Murooj’s latest sojourn on the gastronomic globe will pave the way for more Latino flavours to come.
Latino House, Al Murooj Rotana, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3211111.
LIGHT LUNCH
Le Pain Quotidien
Where?
On the first floor of the biggest mall outside North America, next to everyone’s fave coffee shop.
What?
This Belgian-owned daily bread outlet offers coffee shop aromas and fresh organic bread. Inside, you’ll find homely, rustic tables and yellow stonewashed walls. On our visit we drank Earl Grey and English breakfast teas from large, handle-free, finger-burning bowls. A roast beef sandwich with mayo and a beef carpaccio sandwich with an olive tapenade were less hot to handle, but lacked flavour with the ingredients stacked atop dense, heavy bread. A cup of sweetcorn soup made way for an espresso tart, providing a burst of flavour. The forest fruit tart, laden with fresh, juicy toppings, was lighter and crumblier. On the way out, half a loaf of wholegrain raisin bread was purchased from the bakery – thick and crunchy – great with Stilton.
Worth it?
Absolutely. Head for a back table to escape, even if it’s only to rest your weary shopping feet over a cuppa. Our bill was Dhs160 for all items (except the Stilton). The half loaf was Dhs19 – too pricey for your daily bread, but worth it when you’re feeling flush. JF
Le Pain Quotiden, Mall of the Emirates, Dubai. Tel: (04) 3410041.