Eid breaks
Khasab peace and quiet
Just 30 kilometres north of the UAE border lies a town that’s a world away from the bustling cities of Dubai and Abu Dhabi. Put your car, and your nerves, to the test on some of the windiest roads known to man, and you’ll notice a distinct change in the air as you reach Khasab, the heart of the northern province of Musandam, part of the sultanate of Oman, and an authentic taste of the Middle East where time has stood still. Until now that is.
Khasab’s popularity is increasing with snorkellers, dolphin spotters and couples seeking a quiet weekend away, and this Eid break is likely to be no exception. While you may question what an earth there is in the tiny town – bar the now famed Golden Tulip Hotel – it soon becomes clear that that’s exactly the attraction. Our advice is to pack a swimsuit, sunscreen and a War and Peace-sized book and enjoy the novelty of there being, for once, little else to do except sit back and relax in this sleepy slice of tranquillity.
But, if you can’t sit still, head down to the Golden Tulip Hotel’s reception to book yourself on a dhow cruise with one of three companies (some with air-conditioned dhows, others with dhows so ‘authentic’ they might even pre-date dhows). A short trip to the harbour and you’ll soon be gliding through the Arabian Gulf, inevitably heading for the renowned Khor Ash Sham fjord where you’ll pass tiny, secluded villages set into dramatic cliffs such as Nadifi, Qanaha or Seebi. Also keep an eye out for Telegraph Island where the British laid the first telegraph pole in the area in 1864. It was for the first telephone line running from Khasab to India to Iraq.
It’s also worth checking out Khasab Fort in the bay, built by the Portuguese at the start of the seventeenth century. Today, it’s the place where smugglers nip back and forth to Iran shifting cigarettes like clockwork in their fleet of speedboats. It’s Khasab’s bizarre open secret. As the anchor is dropped you’ll have an hour or two to enjoy snorkelling in the clear waters of the Arabian Gulf. On our trip, just as we reached the mouth of the fjords on our way home, a school of dolphins popped up to say goodbye before vanishing into the horizon.
If you fancy taking the plunge with a PADI discovery dive or you want to rack up a few more hours in the scuba logbook, there’s a professionally run dive centre in the hotel’s grounds. However you choose to spend your time in Khasab, take in the scents of shisha, look on as fisherman pull in their catch for the day and enjoy something the locals have got down to a fine art – relaxing. JF
CLIMATE IN NOVEMBER
Often slightly cooler than the UAE although humidity levels can soar. Expect temperatures in the mid-30s (Celsius).
VISA REQUIREMENTS
All non-Omani citizens will need to show their passport and get an appropriate visitors visa at the border.
GETTING THERE
It’s 160kms north of Dubai and should take less than three hours to drive. From Dubai jump on the Emirates Road (E311) and head for Ras Al Khaimah. Once you reach a roundabout with Ras Al Khaimah signposted, consult the directions you’ve printed off from the Golden Tulip Hotel’s website, www.goldentulipkhasab.com.